Sunny Day in the 5th: Rue Mouffetard, Jardin des Plantes, and Tea at the Grande Mosquée

Okay, let's face it - when I use the word Sunny, what I actually mean is that a handful of sun rays peeked through the clouds intermittently during the day. What I DON'T mean is the bright, powerful, stark sunshine of California - That kind of sunshine, my friends, I probably won't be seeing anytime soon. But for now, a few warming rays bring a much-needed feeling of warm happiness. This Saturday, I went on a little wander through the 5th Arrondissement with my friend Ellen. She introduced me to a really great Crêperie on well-known Rue Mouffetard that has made its appearances on many a travel itinerary, but which I had never heard of. In fact, I had never even walked this famous foodie road until now! I was pleasantly surprised with how charming it was - on a slight incline, full of delicious scents of roasting meat, felafel, and sweet crêpes, miscellaneous shops, an American diner... shall I go on? The Crêperie, called Au P'tit Grec, offers GINOURMOUS sweet and savoury french-style pancakes at really modest prices. Not only was the Egg, Cheese, and Ham crêpe super filling and yummy, but even the typical Nutella crêpe we had for dessert was exceptionally good - I have a theory it's the butter they use on the grill when heating. If you decide to go, be advised that there will probably be a substantial queue for both take-away and sit-down, and that the interior seating is extremely limited. But don't let that stop you! More info at the bottom of the post. The temperature was really so lovely, and strolling down Rue Mouffetard, Nutella crêpe in-hand, was bliss. And of course, flower shops only add to the ambiance. After a little brainstorming, Ellen and I made our way over to Jardin des Plantes, which was only just beginning to sprout flowers here and there. Not only is it a botanical garden during warm weather, they also had an Orchid exhibition in a massive greenhouse, a Natural History museum, and a small Zoo. We satisfied ourselves by merely walking around, as we both had no desire to stand in line and pay for entrance tickets ("help me, I'm poor" - Kristen Wiig in Bridesmaids). We finished our Journey in the 5th with some hot, sweet mint tea at the Grande Mosquée de Paris. We chose to sit in the front courtyard, with white walls, blue tile work, soft, diffused lighting, and a chorus of songbirds. The tea was a nice treat, sweetened to my taste. I saw a few people enjoying sweet-smelling hookah. We had a look-see around the interior, and it certainly didn't disappoint - different rooms with painted walls, red curtains, gold accents, the works. I highly, highly recommend stopping in if you're in the area. It was so lovely to experience a little slice of Paris I had never tasted before. Just when you think you've seen it all, that there's nothing left to explore or ignite that sense of adventure and discovery - a friend takes you somewhere new. It's really made me want to branch out more, see places in Paris I've never thought to see.

Places Mentioned:
Au P'Tit Grec Crêperie - 62 Rue Mouffetard, 75005
Jardin des Plantes - 57 Rue Cuvier, 75005
2bis Place du Puits de l'Ermite, 75005
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Visual Diary: Brassai Exhibition, Éclair de Genie, and Fleux

I started my Monday off right with a trip into Paris. Being low on money, I needed an activity that required little to no spending, and the free Brassai photography exhibition, Pour L'Amour de Paris, was what I decided on. I was under the impression that I was being clever by coming on a Monday, that perhaps the line would be shorter, but I was sorely mistaken. I waited in the cold wind for about an hour and a half. -___- If I had a snack, more comfortable shoes, warmer clothes, and a friend to keep me company, it wouldn't have been half bad, but by the time 45 minutes had passed, I was pretty irritable.

Was the show worth the wait? Yes and no. In my situation, no. However, bring necessary entertainment and supplies, and you'll be golden. Come well before closing time so you're not kicked out of the line... I witnessed the last 20 people in line getting turned away by a tough looking security guard as I was leaving :(

The show itself was interesting, Brassai had taken some of the most iconic images of Belle Epoque Paris, and there was quite a funny little film of zoo animals being projected in the back. There were many pictures of the streets at night, as well as people and performers in their habitat. It's always interesting to try and imagine the narrative and relationships that are being played out in a still photograph. My favourite image, the one I bought a postcard of, wasn't the famous Montmartre stairway, but a super dark picture of a black cat. All you can see are the decorative floor tiles, illuminated by some dim light source,and the eerily glowing eyes, floating in a black, empty space.



The sun had begun to set by the time I started walking back to the train station. I admired the golden light on the buildings and stopped to listen to the bells of Notre Dame ringing 6 o'clock.






The following day, my friend Ellen and I had boba tea on our minds, but what we ended up doing is another story. We did eventually find the boba place, tucked away into a tiny, hidden corner near Centre Pompidou, but before that, we discovered Éclair de Génie. Rumoured to be some of the best éclairs in Paris, and at 5-7 euros apiece, we decided to split a Rouge Baiser; a raspberry-chocolate flavoured baton of richness that looked like a work of glass art. The red colour was so vibrant, it was actually a bit startling at first glance.

We weren't sure where this boba tea place was, so we wandered around the area for a while, never a bad thing in Paris, until we came across a wonderland of novelty items, fancy iPhone cases, art books, and gorgeous Scandinavian design objects and furniture. The heavenly place was called Fleux, kinda like Flux, but with a French pronunciation.

The store was spread among 3 or 4 buildings, and just browsing though it all was like roaming through a super fun museum, a museum in which you can touch things, speak at a normal level, and if you have money enough, buy things. Most of it was waaaaaay out of my price range, but simply experiencing the visual feast was reward enough.










I want that bookshelf. Can I have that bookshelf? please? One day, when I'm filthy rich, I'll have it. :p


Places Mentioned:
Brassai, Pour L'Amour de Paris at l'Hotel de Ville
Fleux - 39 & 52 rue Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie75004 PARIS
Bubbolitas - 17 Rue Quincampoix, 75004


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